A Week Aboard the SS Thorfinn in Truk Lagoon
If there is a "Holy Grail" for wreck divers, it’s hidden in the emerald waters of Chuuk (Truk) Lagoon. This isn't just a dive destination; it’s an underwater time capsule. In 1944, Operation Hailstone sent dozens of Japanese warships and aircraft to the seafloor, creating the world’s most spectacular "Ghost Fleet."
To see it properly, you need a base that’s as legendary as the wrecks themselves. Enter the SS Thorfinn.
The Boat: A Classic Behemoth
The SS Thorfinn isn't your average sleek, modern liveaboard—and that’s exactly why we love it. As a 58-meter steamship, she is a literal giant. Her size and heavy displacement mean she’s incredibly stable, a godsend if you’re prone to Vitamin Sea-induced queasiness.
The Vibe: Old-school maritime charm meets "dive valet" luxury.
The Suite Life: If you want to dive like royalty, book Thor’s Lair. It’s a massive king-size suite that makes standard liveaboard cabins look like closets.
The Logistics: Instead of diving off the main deck, the Thorfinn uses two custom 10-meter launches. This allows small groups to hit different wrecks simultaneously, avoiding the "diver soup" effect on popular sites.
The Diving: Rust, Relics, and Reefs
Truk Lagoon is essentially an underwater museum. You aren't just looking at hulls; you're looking at Zero fighter planes tucked in cargo holds, tanks perched on decks, and telegraphs still waiting for a signal.
Fujikawa Maru: The crown jewel. It features beautiful coral-encrusted bow guns and holds filled with aircraft parts.
San Francisco Maru: Known as the "Million Dollar Wreck." At 50m+, it’s a tech diver’s dream, featuring three intact Type-95 tanks on deck.
Shinkoku Maru: A stunning night dive. The ship is draped in soft corals and anemones, making it as much a "reef" dive as a wreck dive.
Pro Tip: While many wrecks are within recreational limits (under 30m), Truk is the place to finally get that Nitrox or Deep Specialty certification to truly maximize your bottom time.
Essential Travel Advice
Getting to Chuuk is an adventure in itself. Most divers arrive via the United "Island Hopper" flight from Honolulu or Guam.
Visas & Transit: You’ll likely transit through Guam (a US territory), so ensure your ESTA or visa is sorted.
Cash is King: Credit cards are rare on the island. Bring enough USD for the $50 Chuuk Dive Permit and the $30 departure tax (subject to change).
Pack Light, Dive Heavy: The water is a consistent 28-29°C, so a 3mm shorty or even a skinsuit is plenty. However, bring a spare computer and a good torch—penetrating these dark holds is where the magic happens!
The SS Thorfinn offers a "continuous" booking system, meaning you can often start your trip any day of the week. It’s flexible, historic, and undeniably cool.
This article above was written by @Sebastien (Dive and Cruise Team member), please respect the copyright!
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